Months ago, we took a trip to San Juan, Puerto Rico. I haven’t blogged about it because of my conflicted reactions to the city and surrounding areas. Upon arrival, we secured an Uber and began the ride to our hotel. On the ride which took us past touristy beach hotels, some obviously upscale homes, and structures that looked as if they’d been bombed, I wondered at the eclectic mix. I wondered how the people in the upscale homes felt about the seemingly war-torn structures surrounding them. Sure, I’m obviously naïve in my thinking that upscale residences should not be surrounded by slums. Upon further inspection, I decided the dilapidated buildings were not simply victims of poverty, but rather, nature. Hurricane Maria wreaked havoc on this U.S. territory, yes, but the storm hit five years ago. Shouldn’t much of the devastation be repaired by now? The answer to that question is as complicated as my reaction to the area, I soon learned. Conversations with Uber drivers, bartenders, and tour guides educated me on the many cultures of Puerto Rico and their often inability to agree on courses of action. Of course, naïve me thought: Who’s in charge? I asked that question several times during our trip especially when the power went out for 48 hours. Thankfully, our hotel and the surrounding restaurants had generators, so we weren’t that inconvenienced, but what of locals? If you cannot afford to go to a restaurant, then what do you eat? What I found even more shocking was the local’s reaction to the power outage. No one seemed that bothered by it. From what I was told, it happens often, and Puerto Ricans figure it out. Quite a flexible, resilient group. I’ll stop here because I’m already risking a perfect mimic of a hated literary character, the father in The Poisonwood Bible.
So, advice, when traveling in San Juan, ask if your hotel has its own generator, not a question I thought to ask. I mean, it’s the U.S., right? Our hotel, The Gallery Inn, is as eclectic as Puerto Rico itself. The owner purchased the ruined building in 1961 and began her life’s work of restoration and constant caretaking all while adding to the original house plus 18 apartments to the present-day 27. Her children, grandchildren, and great-grandchildren know every nook and cranny of the inn where “every corner has a story.” The inn’s ramshackle luxury entertains, but if T.V., consistent hot water, and to-go coffee cups interest you, stay elsewhere. Do I have another suggestion, not in San Juan. Try the gated resorts of Dorado Beach, but that’s a whole ‘nother vacation.
Is anything in San Juan uncomplicated and perfectly fulfilling? Yes, the food. Oh, yes, the food (and drinks!). From Pina Coladas at Barrachina, a post-rain forest lunch at El Yunque Treehouse, to a 7-course Chef’s Choice meal La Mallorquina, the food rocks! Our La Mallorquina experience rates number one presently. We travel to Paris this month and expect to eat well, so that rating my not stand! We’ll see. Some pics:
I realize when traveling in a tropical area I should probably look up and around, but I was mesmerized by the different shades of San Juan’s brick streets. Our tour guide (free tours start in front of Plaza Colon daily; tip well!) explained that the bricks were brought over as ballast on ships from Europe. The color depends on the country of origin; supposedly, the darker blues are Spanish, but no one really knows.
Old San Juan surprised and enchanted many times, especially the night we stumbled into an art show at The Poet’s Passage. The featured artist’s work captured San Juan scenes masterfully. His biography reads like a romance novel, so this romance writer purchased several works.
So, food, bricks, art, and … light fixtures. Just have to share these pictures. When I looked up from the blue brick streets, these charmers wooed.
Been there; done that. 